Brussels in April and Three Day Trips!
I arrived in Brussels before my hotel room was ready. After leaving my luggage with the concierge, I headed toward the first site on my list – Manneken Pis. I had seen so many videos about this bronze fountain sculpture, and it was mentioned in every travel book I read. But I do have to admit, I was quite disappointed in its size and location. The statue itself is only 21 inches tall and depicts a naked little boy urinating into a fountain’s basin which is located on the corner of a small busy street. For some reason, I expected him to be in a park. As I made my way to the statue, there were throngs of people with their cell phones out taking pictures of this interesting little statue.
The best part is that this statue has an extensive wardrobe consisting of over one thousand different costumes. When I first saw Manneken Pis, he seemed to be wearing blue scrubs. However, I visited him on my last day in Brussels and the outfit was different.
Be sure to watch the video below to the end to see that different outfit.
Throughout Belgium, there are three official languages: French, Dutch and German. However, in Brussels, the capital of Belgium, French and Dutch, also known as Flemish, are the two official languages with French being more prevalent. While researching for this trip, I learned that the term “French Fries” got its name from American soldiers in Belgium during World War I who mistakenly associated the fried potatoes with the French language spoken in southern Belgium not realizing that they were in Belgium and not France.
Technically, we should be calling these delicious fried potatoes “Belgian Fries,” and they were everywhere along with mounds of chocolate and waffles with all kinds of toppings.
As I walked through the streets of Brussels, I quickly came upon the beautiful Cathedral of Saint Michael and Saint Gudula.
Both saints are the patron saints of Brussels. We all know Saint Michael the Archangel but who was Saint Gudula?
Saint Gudula is a Christian saint venerated in both the Catholic and Orthodox churches. She was born in Belgium around 646. She was the daughter of the Duke of Lotharingia. She received the veil from the hands of Saint Aubert, Bishop of Cambrai and was educated in Nivelles Abbey.
Saint Gudula spent her time in good works and religious devotion. She was exuberant in her offerings to the poor. Nothing particular is recorded of Gudula beyond the singular holiness of her life. However, in 1047, the Count of Leuven founded a chapter in honor of Saint Gudula. Her relics were then transferred to the Church of Saint Michael in Brussels. It was at that time that the name was changed to the Cathedral of Saint Michael and Saint Gudula. Unfortunately, during the Protestant Reformation, the church was pillaged, and Saint Gudula’s relics were disinterred and scattered.
Construction for the Cathedral of Saint Michael and Saint Gudula began in the 11th century and was completed by the 16th century. I attended a daily Mass in the side chapel which was said in French.
I also attended the Palm Sunday Vigil Mass at the Cathedral, also in French. Here is a picture of the palms that were distributed.
The details of the cathedral can be best seen in the video below. What I noticed in every church I visited in Belgium was the extensive woodwork that made up the pulpits in each church. Stay tuned for an explanation found in a museum in Bruges.
After settling in my hotel, I visited the roof top bar for some spectacular views of the city – see video below.
The next morning, I was on my way to the National Basilica of the Sacred Heart.
The basilica is a minor basilica and parish church in Brussels. King Leopold II laid the first stone in 1905 during the celebrations of the 75th anniversary of Belgian independence. Construction was halted by the two world wars and finished in 1970. This church is the 14th largest church by area in the world and the largest in Belgium.
During my walking tour of Brussels, I found the Central Train Station located minutes from my hotel.
The next day, I headed to my first day trip by train to the city of Mechelen.
Mechelen is in the province of Antwerp in the Flemish region of Belgium. It is one of Flanders’ prominent cities of historical art and was notably a center for artistic production during the Northern Renaissance.
One of the main attractions in Mechelen is Saint Rumbold’s Cathedral.
Saint Rumbold’s nationality is not known for certain, however, it is believed that he was either an Irish or Scottish missionary. He was martyred near Mechelen by two men, whom he had denounced for their evil ways. Saint Rumbold is the patron saint of Mechelen and his feast day is June 24.
While getting lost on purpose in the streets of Mechelen, I found the Basilica of Our Lady of Hanswijk. This basilica is a Roman Catholic basilica and a famous place of pilgrimage in Belgium. The church was built after a miracle of Our Lady on a local ship. The basilica opened in 1681 and contains another detailed pulpit created by the 18th century Flemish sculptor, Theordoor Verhaegaen.
Stay tuned for an explanation as to why these pulpits were created this way.
I arrived back in Brussels earlier than expected. I continued getting lost in the city and in doing so came upon an amazing museum.
The Magritte Museum is an art museum in the Royal Quarter of Brussels not far from the Royal Palace of Brussels. The museum is housed in a five-level neoclassical building dating from the late 18th century. The museum displayed over 200 original paintings, drawings, and sculptures by Rene Francois Ghislain Magritte, a Belgian artist born in 1898. From the moment I stepped into the museum, I was enthralled by all that I saw.
After the museum, I found the Church of Our Lady of Victories at the Sablon. This church was built in the 15th century and attended by the nobility and wealthy citizens of Brussels. At the end of the 16th century, the church was sacked by Calvinists, and the statue of the Blessed Mother was destroyed. At the beginning of the French occupation in 1795, the church was saved from the anti-religious zeal of the occupiers. The church remained closed for a few years and was returned to religious service under Napoleon. The complex was designated a historic monument in 1936.
Beautiful pictures of all of the cathedrals and basilicas can be seen in the video below!
The next day I was off on another day trip. This time to beautiful Bruges. I heard and read so many wonderful things about Bruges and was anxious to see it for myself. During the one-hour train ride from Brussels, I met a young couple from Peru. They were on a 30-day vacation throughout Europe. Their journey began in Amsterdam. After Brussels and a few day trips in Belgium, they were off to Milan, Venice, and Rome.
Upon exiting the train station in Bruges, I was having trouble accessing the GPS system on my phone. The first site I wanted to see was the Saint Salvator Cathedral. Looking in the near distance, I could see its tower. I decided to follow the crowd in that direction.
Before reaching Saint Salvator Cathedral, I found the beautiful Church of Our Lady.
There were two amazing finds in this church which also housed a museum.
The first was a white marble sculpture of the Madonna and Child created by Michelangelo in 1504.
The history of this sculpture is quite interesting. This sculpture was completed in 1506 and purchased in Italy by two merchants from Bruges. In 1514, it was donated to the Church of Our Lady in Bruges. This sculpture was the only sculpture to be taken out of Italy while Michelangelo was alive. The sculpture was twice recovered after being looted by French revolutionaries in 1794 and Nazi Germans in 1944.
The second amazing find in this church was an explanation for the detailed woodwork found in the different pulpits throughout Belgium churches. In response to the Protestant Reformation, the Catholic Church initiated radical reform known as the Counter-Reformation. Greater emphasis was placed on church teaching and the pulpit was given a prominent place in churches. Just as stain glass windows and other art pieces are used to share scripture, the detailed woodwork in the pulpits provide the same opportunity.
The explanation provided for the woodwork in this pulpit is from the Book of Proverbs and proclaims faith to the world. In addition, the platform where the preacher stands is decorated with scenes from the New Testament.
Construction for the Church of Our Lady began in the late 1200s. Its tower remains the tallest structure in Bruges and the third tallest brickwork tower in the world.
Saint Salvator Cathedral was a short walk from the Church of Our Lady. This cathedral is the main church of the city and was granted cathedral status in the 19th century.
Once at the main market square of the city, I found the Befort van Brugge Clock Tower. The clock tower was added to the market square in 1240.
In a smaller square near the main market of the city, I found the Basilica of the Holy Blood.
This was a beautiful basilica, much smaller than the others I have seen. The church houses a relic of the Holy Blood of Jesus collected by Joseph of Arimathea during the burial of Jesus. According to tradition, the Count of Flanders in 1150 returned from a crusade with the relic of the Precious Blood.
As I entered the basilica, I noticed a section to the right with a small stairwell ascending and descending on either side. There was a small table at the top of the platform. Behind the table sat a man dressed in priestly garments. I noticed on the table was a glass case that housed a large circular tube. I sat near the stairs so that I could see the glass case and wondered if this could be the Most Precious Blood of Jesus. As I pondered the idea that Joseph of Arimathea collected a vile of Jesus’ blood during the burial and then centuries later it was found and brought to this place, I noticed a tall man who without hesitation, approached the stairwell, stopped briefly to read a sign, and then boldly ascended the staircase and stood before the glass case. After a moment of silence, he made the sign of the cross and then descended the platform via the other staircase. Shortly after, others followed. I approached the sign at the bottom of the stairs which was written in several different languages. The sign provided very brief instructions and encouraged donations for the basilica. I reached into my pocket and grabbed several Euros and ascended the stairs toward the table at the top of the stairs. I placed my donation in the basket provided near the table and then wondered as I stood before the glass case, Was I really standing before the Precious Blood of Jesus? As I placed my hand on the glass case, tears began to well up in my eyes. Before leaving, the priest sitting behind the table, handed me a small booklet. The front cover has a picture of the vile that is housed in the glass case. Inside the booklet is the following prayer written in twelve different languages.
Lord,
You are the source of all love.
You showed it through Jesus who shed his blood for us.
We ask You - open our hearts,
Make them as generous as yours.
Give us a heart eager to serve others.
Let us be the expression of your smile on the world. Amen!
There are so many unexplained miracles in our faith. This, I believe, is one of them. If you plan a visit to Bruges, I highly recommend a visit to this basilica.
The next day, I headed to the beautiful city of Leuven. Leuven is located 16 miles east of Brussels and has been a university city since 1425. The Catholic University in Leuven has a large presence throughout the city. I read much about the University Library in my travel books and was headed toward the library when I found Saint Anthony Chapel.
As I walked around the perimeter of the inside of this church, I noticed displays on the life and works of Saint Peter Damien.
Saint Damien provided care to the leper colony in Molokai, Hawaii from 1873 until his death in 1889. What I did not know is that Saint Damien was born in Belgium.
Saint Damien was initially buried in Molokai, but his remains were later transferred to Leuven, Belgium in 1936 to honor his legacy in his homeland.
As I continued my walk toward the University Library, I found Abdij van Park which led me to Park Abbey and its museum.
After lunch, I continued my walk around Leuven and finally came upon the University Library.
Upon entering the building, I learned that Americans played a crucial role in funding the reconstruction of this library after destruction from both World War I and World War II. After World War I, the new building was designed by American architect Whitney Warren and was largely funded by donations from American universities, institutions, and individuals. The library was destroyed again during World War II but was rebuilt with international support.
On my last day in Brussels, I continued exploring the sites. I visited several more churches, monuments, and parks located near the royal palace. The video below is a culmination of all that I saw.
Be sure to watch the video to the end so that you can see the new outfit displayed by the infamous Manneken Pis!
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